Heart of darkness

By: Behroz Khan

25 journalists travel to meet the elusive Baitullah Mahsud

Passing through the rugged mountains and unpaved bumpy roads, a 25-member media delegation was taken to the Mehsud belt of South Waziristan by the Taliban to meet the most wanted Pakistani militant Baitullah Mahsud, a character wrapped in myths and mystery.

This was the first-ever exposure of the virgin terrain to the world when journalists working with TV channels and the print media traveled for almost 14 hours to Sra Rogha, the bastion of the dreaded man known for his extremist views. Reaching Mirali town of North Waziristan, the journalists were taken in a big procession to the neighboring South Waziristan by heavily armed men of Baitullah Mehsud.

Long beards and long hair are the trademark of these militants identifying themselves as Taliban Mujahideen. Hafiz Latifullah, the young lieutenant of Baitullah was co-ordinating with journalists in Peshawar and Islamabad before we finally met him in Mirali. Latifullah believes that besides being Islamic and symbol of Jihad, the long hair and bushy beards of Taliban was a sign of terror for the enemies. But he was not much clear when asked that the enemies (US and its allies) were equipped with high technology and could hit targets from the skies without confronting them on the ground, so what was the point in growing beards and hair so long? However, local tribesmen wary of the might and tactics of the Taliban while dealing with 'spies' and 'informers' were mindful of the fact that the Taliban get-up was a sign of terror for the locals than any body else.

However the behavior of the Taliban fighters accompanying the journalists was mild and they treated their guests politely. As expected, the hosts were not harsh towards them for not offering prayers five times or being clean shaven, though, some of them did mention that those journalists betraying the Taliban's trust should face the slaughtering squad, this did send a shiver down the spine of many of us. The Taliban were constantly asking for a Peshawar-based journalist whom they thought was using inappropriate words for them in his reports like miscreants etc. The drivers carrying the guests from one place to the other were driving the vehicles very dangerously.

Fighters as young as 15 years were brandishing their AK-47 assault rifles and playing with daggers and it looked like as ifthey had been assigned the task of beheading spies and captured enemies. The squad of suicide bombers headed by Qari Hussain has a special status. Young boys not more than 17 years of age were introduced by the Taliban as the ones restlessly waiting for their turn to strike against targets and embrace martyrdom. Baitullah Mahsudbelieves that the suicide bombers (fidayeen) were a force which can never be defeated. "When these 'fidayeen' are told that 'Hoors' (beautiful girls) are waiting by looking out of the windows in paradise to embrace them, these youngsters are fighting with the leaders for not allowing them to be with the 'Hoors'", said one of the Taliban fighters.

From Razmak, the summer station of North Waziristan down to Makeen the major town of South Waziristan and to the end of the Mesud belt at Spinkai-Raghzai, no security check post has been left intact and the two forts of the security forces at Nawaz Kot and Sra Rogha have been dynamited. Sra Rogha Fort was built by the British in 1923 while Nawaz Kot fort was the residence of a local tribal contractor rented out to the forces for stationing there. There is complete control of Baitullah's men, as the security forces have been withdrawn from these areas due to insecurity and hostile environment.

The main Jandola-Makeen road is in a bad shape. It is unpaved, narrow and exposed to land slides. The journalists were stranded at a point for more than two hours due to closure of the track by land slide as heavy shower lashed the valley. But the resourceful Taliban managed to take us to Sra Rogha after communicating with their leadership through a satellite phone. The four-wheelers were sent from Spinkai-Raghzai to the spot and we had to change vehicles to embark on the journey with excitement and skepticism to meet Baitullah Mehsud. Many believed that Baitullah Mahsudmight not compromise on his safety to be among such a big crowd.

After spending a comparatively comfortable night at the 'hujras' of local tribal elders in Gharlama village of Sra Rogha area, the delegation was taken to all those villages and houses in Kotkai, Sra Rogha and Spinkai-Raghzai bazaar, which had been destroyed and bulldozed by the forces during the military operation in January. It was observed that beside the demolition of portions of the houses owned by Taliban top commanders, Qari Hussain and Hakimullah in Kotkai, majority of the destroyed buildings and houses were owned by common tribesmen. Families displaced due to the fighting between militants and the military, are slowly and gradually returning to their ruined houses, which need rebuilding.The entire bazaar at Spinkai-Raghzai has been bulldozed, which over the years had become the main trade and business center in the Mahsudbelt.

On returning from Spinkai-Raghzai to Kotkai, we were informed that 'Amir Saib', a name given to Baitullah Mahsudby his men, was waiting for us in the building of a high school, which has been converted into Taliban local headquarters. All the schools are closed as majority of the buildings are serving as offices and bases of the Taliban. But during the meeting with Mahsud, he asked the government departments other than the army to come back and resume activities in health, male education, roads, supply of electricity, drinking water and other social services. He said only 'muftis' will decide about giving permission to girls to go to schools. He spoke at length about all the issues ranging from Benazir Bhutto's assassination to the release of Pakistan's ambassador to Kabul, Tariq Azizuddin and the ongoing peace talks with the government to restore order.

However, Baitullah Mahsudcategorically stated that his fight against the US and its allies will continue in Afghanistan and also owned the claim that suicide bombers were his asset. "They are my Atom bombs. If the infidels have atom bombs, I have them too," he said. He denied his involvement in Benazir Bhutto's murder and held the rulers accountable for eliminating her. "We are not involved in her assassination and will not co-operate with the UN because, the world body is a slave of the United States," he said. About his meeting with Osama bin Laden and Mulla Muhammad Omar, Baitullah Mahsud said, "I did not get the opportunity to meet them but I wish I could."